How to Visit Metelkova Mesto; The Quirky Independent District and Street Art of Ljubljana, Slovenia

Who would’ve guessed that the autonomous cultural centre of Ljubljana; Metelkova Mesto, was nestled just a stone’s throw from the traditional Medieval town?

The ancient city of Ljubljana, with its photogenic streets, has a grittier facade. Here, the Ljubljana street art scene is flourishing. Metelkova City, the Republic of ROG as well as little pockets of fascinating street art in Ljubljana’s old town are showcasing an alternative and feistier side of the Slovenian capital. 

The independent district of Metelkova feels like you’ve stepped into a bohemian playground. Street art dons every wall and building, strange, quirky and sometimes creepy sculptures hang off balconies and lurk in grassy areas. 

In this article, I’ll tell you how you can experience and explore Metelkova, Ljubljana. It was unexpectedly one of the highlights of my Slovenia trip! Let’s go!

What is Metelkova Ljubljana?

The area of Metelkova Mesto is an autonomous area situated in the city of Ljubljana, Slovenia. It was established in the early 90s and is currently home to a diverse group of artists, activists, and other creatives.

The area is known for its distinctive street art and graffiti, which many consider to be some of the best in Europe. It goes by several names:

• Metelkova
• Metelkova Street
• Metelkova Ulica
• Metelkova City
• Metelkova Mesto
• AKC MetelkovaMesto

In addition to being a cultural hub for creativity and expression, Metelkova is also home to a variety of venues including bars, clubs, galleries, and music venues. These spaces provide the perfect backdrop for a wide range of events and activities throughout the year.

Furthermore, Metelkova is home to many independent cultural projects where people can express themselves and their views. This provides an outlet for those seeking alternative methods of communication in a context that supports and encourages creative freedom.

In short, Metelkova Mesto is a vibrant cultural hub that serves as a safe haven for ideas, creativity, and expression. It offers its community the opportunity to explore their own identity in an environment that fosters this.

The History of Metelkova Mesto

The full name of this area of Ljubljana is called the Metelkova City Autonomous Cultural Centre (or Avtonomni Kulturni Centre Metelkova Mesto in Slovenian or AKC for short).

The building of the barracks dates back to 1882 and was initially used by the Austro-Hungarian army.

Eventually, the building became the headquarters and prison of the Yugoslav National Army, which was up until 1991 when communism fell and Slovenia declared independence from Yugoslavia. After that, the buildings were in line for demolition.

In September 1993, squatters moved into the abandoned buildings. The barracks became a home and meeting place for youths and young artists who called themselves the “Network for Metelkova”. The area got its name after a nearby street called Metelko Street (Metelkova Ulica in Slovenian).

The Boom of Street Art in Ljubljana

Despite being granted permission to use the abandoned barracks to create an autonomous cultural centre, Metelkova’s future still wasn’t granted. Until more recently, it wasn’t recognised as a municipality of its own. The people living here even had to illegally siphon off water and power until more recent times.

With the prospect of the buildings being demolished, the network of about 200 artists protested and asked for permission to keep the abandoned barracks. Their goal was to turn them into an artistic commune. 

Although permission was granted, the future of Metelkova was never 100% certain with the likelihood of selling the land for commercial use.

The Future of Metelkova, Slovenia

The people of Metelkova Mesto are passionately against the gentrification of the area, and you can see why. Surrounding the area are ultra-modern developments, which compared to Metelkova, have no soul about them.

Today the seven buildings are run as an autonomous cultural centre. 

Metelkova it’s a little city within a city with its own rules. It’s become a centre for liberal thought and speech which appeals to creatives who enjoy the freedom to express their art (in sculpture, painting, spoken word etc.).

In 2005 Metelkova Mesto was officially recognised as part of the national cultural heritage, which thankfully has secured its future. And I’m glad. It really is a remarkable and thought-provoking little part of Ljubljana, it would have been detrimental to the city if it had been demolished. 

Visiting Metelkova Mesto – Know Before You Go

Metekova Meso district is divided between bars, clubs, studios for dance and music, art galleries and design studios. There are frequent pop-up flea markets and exhibitions here too as well as boasting Ljubljana’s most vibrant club scene after hours. 

The area has its own unique identity and it’s an incredibly vibrant palace to visit. 

It’s important to note that despite the abundance of stuff to see here, it’s still a residential area. When you visit, be respectful towards the residents.

Where Is the Ljubljana Art District?

The Ljubljana Art District is located in the Slovenian capital of Ljubljana. It is to the northeast of the old city centre, close to the train station.

Getting to Metelkova Ljubljana

You can easily reach Metelkova from Ljubljana city centre on foot. It’s just a short walk to the northeast, towards the main train and bus stations. You’ll know you’ve found the area because the streets surrounding this district are filled with stress art.

Is the Metelkova District Safe?

The area is generally safe. However, just be aware of your surroundings. If you visit in the evening, the streets can get quite busy so be mindful of pickpockets. During the day Metelkova is a great spot to explore, especially for those interested in the alternative culture and youth movement that have taken root here. 

What’s It Like Inside Metelkova?

There is something truly unique about the atmosphere inside Metelkova. It’s a place where creativity and art come together with all sorts of different people, making it one of the most vibrant spots in the entire city.

Inside the walls, you can find a variety of different clubs, galleries, and art studios where you can experience all sorts of music and performances. There’s also plenty of street art, sculptures and graffiti to explore as well.

Best Tour of Metelkova Mesto, Ljubljana

If you’re looking for alternative places to visit in Ljubljana, then Metelkova Mesto is just that. I started my visit as part of a guided tour as I wanted to find out more about the area. It was fascinating to hear how it came about, meet some of the people who live there as well as learn about its importance to the Ljubljana street art scene. 

Although you can visit Metelkova by yourself if you want a guide to explain more about the area and its history, check out this tour of Metelkova.

Where to Stay In Metelkova City, Ljubljana

Hostel Celica Art is THE ONLY place you’d want to stay in Metelkova Mesto. It’s also the only place I’m recommending. It’s located inside part of the old prison! So you’re right in the heart of the district. Literally, spend a night behind bars! 

The prison has been beautifully renovated, so it’s light, airy and with tons of artwork about the place, however, it’s still kept some of the original features, like the prison doors! Even if you don’t stay here, just take a peek at it. Highly recommended. 

Check Availability for Hostel Celica Art, Metelkova City

Things to See in Metelkova Mesto

When you visit Metelkova, be mindful that is a neighbourhood where people live.

This is a street artist’s playground. Every surface in this district has somehow been created into vibrant pieces of artwork. 

This ranges from brightly coloured graffiti, political messages talking about freedom to giant murals and sculptures of alien-like installations and everything in-between.

Sight for the Senses

You’ll notice how many repurposed and salvaged items have been used. Mannequins are a common occurrence as are bike wheels, gears, tiles, ceramics and wooden panelling all in a myriad of bold colours and psychedelic patterning. 

Metelkova is an absolute tease for the senses, there is so much to look at and then when you look again, there’s even more. You’ll also see the residents of the area, often outside in the central courtyards, on the balconies or sometimes working on artwork, other times just socialising. 

Walking around Metelkova, you almost forget that this was once the headquarters of the Yugoslav army along with barracks and a prison. 

I’ve visited abandoned Soviet buildings before, and frequently they have an eerie feel to them. The feel of this area is the polar opposite and a total middle finger up to everything that this place once stood for.

During day time, the area is fairly subdued. However, after dark it attracts a mixed crowd, from different races and backgrounds, ranging from students to tourists to professionals all looking for a fun night out at some of the most diverse underground music scenes in Ljubljana.

The Metelkova Art Center

This is a unique cultural hub, providing a non-commercial space for alternative art and music. 

Artists from all over the world gather here to showcase their work in an open and welcoming environment. The Center also hosts workshops, talks and other activities, making it a great place to meet new people and learn about the local scene.

The Republic of Rog – The Old Bike Factory

A short distance from Metelkova Mesto is the Republic of Rog. Similarly, to Metelkova, the Rog factory was set for demolition.

This former factory is where Rog bicycles were made. Production of the bikes here started in 1953 until 1991 when the factory was closed. Again just like with Metelkova, with an uncertain future, a group of artists and activists took charge of the abandoned building, creating the Republic of Rog or the Autonomous Factory Rog. 

This became another venue in the city of Ljubljana for liberal thinking and art as well as a venue for events.

 

The future of The Republic of Rog is still uncertain, the giant gun painted on the side of the wall and facing towards the city is a testament to this. In June 2016 construction crews entered the Rog building and tried to demolish the old factory. You can guess who won, the building is still here!

Alike to Metelkova Mesto, it’s now a thriving area for artistic and free-thinkers with space inside the old factory put aside for galleries and artists’ studios. 

You’ll also find skate parks, social areas and space for concerts and nightclubs here. The building hasn’t forgotten its roots either, look out for the on-site bike repair shop.

Wandering around the grounds, you’ll probably meet some of the residents working on their artwork or sitting about chatting. Like with Metelkova, it’s visually stimulating, not a single surface has been left without some type of artwork or sculpture on it.

Other Street Art in Ljubljana

Away from Metelkova and the old Rog Factory, Ljubljana has a thriving street art scene.

Thankfully the aesthetic of the old cobbled city centre hasn’t been affected. There are a few tasteful pieces dotted about, but the artists have kept their work away from the historic centre. However, if you head to some of the side streets or narrow alleyways, you’ll find tons of it.

Sometimes it’s a large mural and other times a discrete character. You’ll often see similar themes of a character, in particular, there are loads of pieces based on cats and foxes.

On 2-6th July 2019, Ljubljana hosted its first International Street Art Festival, which brought together international and local artists, activists and academics.

The event was called ‘Alternative Ljubljana’ and its goal was to get visitors to the city to ‘read the streets’ and participate in discussions, exhibitions and workshops based around street art whilst encouraging a new generation of street artists to keep street art alive in the capital.

Visiting Metelkova District  – FAQs

I’ve just delved into a ton of info about visiting this quirky yet fascinating place in Ljubljana. You might have some more questions about Metelkova District, this section has answers to questions that can help you plan your trip better.

Ready to Explore Ljubljana Street Art?

If you love street art, Ljubljana is the place to be. You can find amazing murals, graffiti and sculptures all over the city, especially in Metelkova, Ljublana, the former military barracks turned into a cultural centre. 

Ljubljana street art is vibrant, diverse and creative, reflecting the spirit of this beautiful city. 

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